Color | Gold |
---|---|
Brand | General Tools |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Material | Plastic |
Item Weight | 2.94 Pounds |
Item Dimensions LxWxH | 12 x 3 x 3 inches |
Number of Pieces | 1 |
Target Species | Macker |
Manufacturer | General Tools |
Part Number | 861 |
Item Weight | 2.94 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 12 x 3 x 3 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | 861 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Style | Modern |
Power Source | Hand Powered |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Included Components | (1) 861 Dovetail Jig & (1) 14-degree, 1/2 -inch dovetail router bit for use with hand table or table router |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
Warranty Description | Warranty |
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85% positive over last 12 months
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General Tools Woodworking Dovetail Jig - 12" Template Kit for Furniture & Wood Cabinet Making,Gold
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Return this item for free
Free returns are available for the shipping address you chose. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition: no shipping charges
Learn more about free returns.- Go to your orders and start the return
- Select the return method
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Purchase options and add-ons
Color | Gold |
Brand | General Tools |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Material | Plastic |
Item Weight | 2.94 Pounds |
About this item
- ADJUSTABLE DOVETAIL JIG: The 1-piece aluminum layout ensures both ends of the dovetail joint match up evenly, and the integrated clamping design accommodates any board width. Our machine is ideal for indoor and outdoor projects and household repairs.
- JOINT BOX: Our set includes 1 dovetail joiner tool and a single 14-degree, 1/2" dovetail router bit for use with a hand table or table router. The user's manual gives beginners and professionals a guide for easy operation when using the parts.
- WOOD MARKER: Professionals and novices can make half-blind or through dovetail joints, including box joints. It has various applications like repairing, making it a handy and necessary tool to own among your other hand and power accessories.
- DOVETAIL JIGS FOR WOODWORKING: Complete a professional carpentry fixture with our professional-quality saw. You can easily adjust the micro jig interface to create loose or tight joints, and the control knobs promise comfortable and accurate use.
- GENERAL TOOLS: We're a recognized leader in developing specialized precision tools dedicated to delivering exceptional customer service. We encourage artisans and DIYers to use our machinery to work smarter, measure better, and repair productively.
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Review And Test Of The General Tools Dovetail Jig
WoodyGoodyWoodworks
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861 EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Kit
General Tools Manufacturing Company LLC
Product information
Technical Details
Additional Information
ASIN | B007E9IMP0 |
---|---|
Customer Reviews |
4.2 out of 5 stars |
Best Sellers Rank | #49,397 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement) #118 in Power Tool Accessory Jigs |
Date First Available | January 7, 2011 |
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Product Description
This 12" General Tools Woodworking Dovetail Jig is an easy way to create professional joints, including half-blinded, edge-to-edge, square, and through joints. The integrated clamps allow precise jig clamping to the workpiece, and there is no need to bolt the jig onto the workbench as other companies recommend. When you're constantly picking up and putting down a router with an exposed bit, it's convenient to park the tool on a safe platform. Keep in mind; the dovetail joint is very strong because the tails and pins are shaped, making it difficult to pull it apart and virtually impossible when the glue is added. At General Tools, we offer over 1,000 products to choose from. We're proud to provide merchants, artisans, and DIYers worldwide with a broad range of affordable, specific-purpose mechanical hand tools and precision measuring and inspection gear.
Customer reviews
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonCustomers say
Customers are satisfied with the performance of the fishing hook. However, some customers have reported issues with the fit. Opinions are mixed on quality, appearance, value, ease of use, correctness, and cut quality.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers like the performance of the jig. They say it does what it's supposed to do well, and is pleased with the result. Some say that it works well with the one guide and produces functional dovetails. Overall, customers are satisfied with the product's performance and find it to fit their purposes well.
"...The slot centering tool provided with this tool is very handy and works well, but the limited width required I reset the tool multiple times for..." Read more
"After 2-3 practices on cut off stock, It works well. Like any other tool, the more you use it, the better you get...." Read more
"Well satisfied." Read more
"Once I figured this out, it worked well and I’m happy with it...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the quality of the fishing hook. Some mention it's well built, and an excellent product for beginner and intermediate woodworkers. However, others say the dovetails are hidden as the tear out issue is too great, the bearings on this bit came apart very quickly, and the joint was so loose it fell apart.
"...wood, harder than Walnut like Purpleheart, or Bloodwood, the bit dulls rapidly. But more seriously, on harder wood, it can come loose in the collet...." Read more
"...The slot centering tool provided with this tool is very handy and works well, but the limited width required I reset the tool multiple times for..." Read more
"...It leaves a pretty good dent...." Read more
"...Couldn't pass on this one, because it's such a good quality, solid, very precise, with excellent hard coat finish...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the ease of use of the jig. Some mention it's very easy to use and makes their boxes look professional, while others say the instructions are unclear and misleading. The clamping is good for thin and wide stocks, but it'll be a bit finicky to handle.
"...It is not difficult to use once understand the measurement settings.Set router to set the depth of the pins...." Read more
"...The alignment tools provided with this tool take some patience to set up, but you need to take your time with this detailed joint if you want a..." Read more
"...The jig is not a complicated thing. It does not require a high level of knowledge to figure out or use...." Read more
"This was really easy to use especially on the router table. I'm only using it or half blind dovetails...." Read more
Customers have mixed opinions about the value of the fishing hook. Some mention that it's great value for money, while others say that it is horrible, horrid, and not versatile like expensive jigs.
"...this jig will let you do it in just few minutes, and the price is uncomparable.5 stars all day long and will recomend to anyone." Read more
"...It did the job and I feel like the value was fair, though I'd definitely upgrade if you plan on doing very much more." Read more
"...The material clamps inside of the jig are pretty inconvenient. Each clamp has two threaded rods...." Read more
"Nice little tool for the money." Read more
Customers are mixed about the appearance of the fishing hook. Some mention it has a great design and easy to use, while others say the clamps are poorly and cheaply designed. They say the dovetails are not beautiful, the tails are too big, and the joints look awful. The bit was dull right out of the box, and wear was noticeable.
"...some playing and watching videos plus several test pieces I got it looking nice and nearly flush. I am sure after glue up it will be fine...." Read more
"...The design is pretty flawed. It is not easy to clamp down. I bent the tail section in with just a harbor freight ratchet bar when I was cutting pins...." Read more
"...because it's such a good quality, solid, very precise, with excellent hard coat finish...." Read more
"The bit was dull right out of the box. Also, the jig is a little difficult to try and maneuver on a nice router table...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the correctness of the fishing hook. Some mention that it's very precise, while others say that it is not very accurate.
"...all, it works, it does what it says it does, and the pin side depth adjustments are accurate for the most part with a little adjustment here and..." Read more
"I want to love this jig. It is a great design and easy to use, but is imprecise. Perhaps this is due to its aluminum/plastic construction...." Read more
"...Couldn't pass on this one, because it's such a good quality, solid, very precise, with excellent hard coat finish...." Read more
"...This is exactly what I hoped.. a repeatable accurate simple way to make half blind dovetails without having to take a college course in jig set up..." Read more
Customers are mixed about the cut quality of the fishing hook. Some mention that the cuts are fairly clean, making cutting dovetails a breeze. However, others say that the depth of the cut is not consistent, and the accuracy and consistency in cuts decrease after a few passes.
"...Cuts good hidden dovetails." Read more
"I'm not a precise woodworker, but this thing made cutting dovetails a breeze...." Read more
"...Additionally, the tail cutting face was not flat. Mine had a tapper of .125 from one side to the other...." Read more
"...Tried with hardwood. Got a very unclean cut...." Read more
Customers have issues with the fit of the fishing hook. They mention that the dovetails would not line up, the joints are far from a good fit, and the tails are too big for the pins. Some customers also say that the pieces to the jig are too small a diameter and feel flimsy. Overall, customers are disappointed with the quality and fit of this product.
"...These just aren’t that tight, no way to make it tighter. Also stand a fair chance of being slightly out here and there...." Read more
"...fact that the knobs you tighten on the back side of the jig do not always sit flush with the clamping surface...." Read more
"...I pounded and pounded with a rubber mallet, but the tails were just too big for the pins every time. I tried it with slightly smaller tails...." Read more
"...Hence my last few dovetails "slots" got too big and I had to wood putty a lot, and almost ruined the entire project.Very disappointed overall." Read more
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I was building shelves (12-inch wide boards), so I wish I had purchased a tool that could handle the full board width. The slot centering tool provided with this tool is very handy and works well, but the limited width required I reset the tool multiple times for each joint.
Overall, I am very pleased with this purchase - it is good for joint widths less than 4-inches. If I was to make more shelves, I would invest in the wider unit.
I used a router table, which I'm sure produces better results. Very hard wood, like Wenge, and Purpleheart, is already prone to router and planer tear out. These woods are much harder than domestic hardwoods. The second photo shows Purpleheart and Wenge. I had some minor tear out on one of the Purpleheart tails. That was not the fault of the jig, but the nature of the type wood. A backer board would help. Domestic hardwoods work no problem. Through joints work ok, but don't come out perfect. Ensure the Pins board is cut using the EXACT thickness of the Tails board, like I didn't do.
I finally got around to trying Edge-to Edge dovetails. They works well too.. The example is two edge-to-edge dovetails per box side, (eight total) mitered, or beveled. It is the Maple with Leopard wood corners.
I did find an issue with the provided bit. On harder wood, harder than Walnut like Purpleheart, or Bloodwood, the bit dulls rapidly. But more seriously, on harder wood, it can come loose in the collet. Initially, I thought it was my OEM collet. I bought a Whiteside collet, same thing. Later, I noticed the exposed shank, below the bearings, was shorter than my other ¼" shank bits. Anyway, I burned up the provided bit on the wine rack.
I now use an Amana 14 degree ½" X ½" dovetail bit, and it works fine. But I guess that helps keep the package price down. I still love the jig, for the price.
Edit: A backer board is a must for me now. I like to run a marking gauge lightly over the board the depth of the thickness on both sides. That's just me.
Reviewed in the United States on May 24, 2023
I used a router table, which I'm sure produces better results. Very hard wood, like Wenge, and Purpleheart, is already prone to router and planer tear out. These woods are much harder than domestic hardwoods. The second photo shows Purpleheart and Wenge. I had some minor tear out on one of the Purpleheart tails. That was not the fault of the jig, but the nature of the type wood. A backer board would help. Domestic hardwoods work no problem. Through joints work ok, but don't come out perfect. Ensure the Pins board is cut using the EXACT thickness of the Tails board, like I didn't do.
I finally got around to trying Edge-to Edge dovetails. They works well too.. The example is two edge-to-edge dovetails per box side, (eight total) mitered, or beveled. It is the Maple with Leopard wood corners.
I did find an issue with the provided bit. On harder wood, harder than Walnut like Purpleheart, or Bloodwood, the bit dulls rapidly. But more seriously, on harder wood, it can come loose in the collet. Initially, I thought it was my OEM collet. I bought a Whiteside collet, same thing. Later, I noticed the exposed shank, below the bearings, was shorter than my other ¼" shank bits. Anyway, I burned up the provided bit on the wine rack.
I now use an Amana 14 degree ½" X ½" dovetail bit, and it works fine. But I guess that helps keep the package price down. I still love the jig, for the price.
Edit: A backer board is a must for me now. I like to run a marking gauge lightly over the board the depth of the thickness on both sides. That's just me.
The instructions are confusing, could be made much simpler. It is not difficult to use once understand the measurement settings.
Set router to set the depth of the pins. In other words it sets the depth of the half blind or how proud throughs will go. The depth on the other side is always the thickness of the board.
Like others said the plastic portion is it’s weak link. Does not sit flat and the slide gives some. The aluminum is also soft. Don’t over tighten the clamps it will bend. For production style drawers this unit will work fine. If you have a bunch to do it is worth it. If you want to make dove tails for show pieces I would probably look elsewhere. These just aren’t that tight, no way to make it tighter. Also stand a fair chance of being slightly out here and there. I would hate to screw up some nice curly, white oak, walnut or exotic sho
I'm sure that with a router table it is at least 75% better/easier, but unfortunately I don't have a router table, so that feature is useless to me.
All in all, it works, it does what it says it does, and the pin side depth adjustments are accurate for the most part with a little adjustment here and there. I would just not recommend this piece to any of my buddies. It's a cool thing to have laying around the shop I guess, but I will be looking for a better replacement.
I hope they address the issues, because the price point is good.
Top reviews from other countries
PRO:
- Prezzo ragionevole: circa 1/4 del costo delle maschere di marca.
- Può essere utilizzato su un tavolo di fresatura: la mia fresatrice (Bosch POF 1400 ACE) è grande e un po' difficile da maneggiare tenendola a mano. Ma ancora non ho provato con il rifilatore più piccolo della Makita.
- È possibile inserire tavole per la lavorazione di qualsiasi larghezza: la forma della dima consente di tagliare 5 code/perni alla volta e poi far scorrere la tavola nella maschera per tagliarne di più assecondo delle necessità.
- C'è un pezzo di plastica scorrevole con 2 funzioni: come calibro per impostare l'altezza della punta della fresatrice (aggiungere 1/2 pollice per accogliere la maschera), quindi impostare la profondità della fessura del perno (aggiungendo ancora 1/2 pollice). Anche se è utile avere questo misuratore multiuso, è meno conveniente di avendo 2 calibri.
- A corredo della dima viene fornito un OTTIMO manuale utente che, passo passo e con numerosi esempi, introduce all'uso corretto della dima. Consiglio una attenta lettura del manuale prima di iniziare le vari prove.
CONTRO:
- Il manuale è in Inglese, Spagnolo e Francese.
- Il pezzo di plastica scorrevole (almeno sul mio articolo) sedeva un po' orgoglioso del corpo in alluminio, il che faceva sì che i tagli dei perni fossero un po' più superficiali dei tagli della coda. I miei giunti di prova iniziali erano sempre allentati e non riuscivo a capirne il motivo finché non ho notato questo problema. Sono riuscito a rimediare al problema staccando il pezzo di plastica, quindi levigandone la parte anteriore con una levigatrice manuale e carta a grana 120, quindi riattaccandolo al corpo in alluminio. Ciò non ha influito negativamente sul misuratore di profondità/altezza regolabile. Questo è qualcosa che il produttore dovrebbero risolvere.
- La punta della fresa fornita con la maschera aveva 2 problemi: continuava a bruciare il legno e l'altezza della lama era leggermente inferiore al 1/2 pollice, il che mi impediva di ottenere giunzioni strette. Ho comprato una nuova punta Freud che ha risolto entrambi i problemi. Avrei preferito acquistare la maschera senza punta a un prezzo leggermente inferiore.
GIUDIZIO COMPLESSIVO: sono riuscito a utilizzare con successo la maschera per realizzare 2 scatole a cassetti alte circa 14 cm, anche se con modifiche alla maschera e alla punta della fresa (come indicato sopra). Ho intenzione di costruire più cassetti in futuro e continuerò a utilizzare questa maschera.
Es ist vollständig aus Metall (Aluminium) und ordentlich verarbeitet. Montiert werden muss nix. Man kann lediglich die beiden Griffe für die Arbeit am Frästisch anschrauben und muss sie wieder abschrauben, wenn man mit dem Fräskorb arbeitet.
Bzgl. US-Produkt: Die Anleitung und das Video sind natürlich auf Englisch. Alle Angaben sind in Zoll (2,54 cm). Der beiliegende Fräskopf ist auch mit einem 1/4" (Zoll) Schaft - den legt man am besten gleich zur Seite, weil der sowieso nicht in eine Standard-Fräse für den deutschen Markt passt, und kauft einen mit 8 mm Schaft in besserer Qualität (gibt’s hier z.B. von ENT 16200).
Man sollte sich schon mal einen Tag Zeit und diverse Probebrettchen nehmen, zusätzlich die Anleitung und das Video schauen, bevor man richtig loslegen kann. Es ist wirklich nicht schwer und macht richtig Spaß, wenn man den Dreh raus hat. Schwalbenschwänze erklärt das Video sehr gut. Das beschreibe ich hier nicht extra, werden aber ordentlich (s. 6. Foto) und halten auch.
Bei den Zinkenfräsen braucht man wieder einen mit Kugellager am Schaft (Bündigfräser). Der Durchmesser muss genau 12,7 mm sein (1/2"), sonst fräst man zu viel oder zu wenig und die Zinken passen nicht.
Er muss um die Länge der Werkstückdicke + Dicke der Zinkenschablone (ca. 7mm) + Zugabe (ca. 0,5mm) herausragen UND (das gilt auch für Schwalbenschwänze) dann immer noch mit dem einen Kugellager an der Zinkenschablone anliegen.
Denn - aufpassen: Die Zinkenschablone hat nach hinten eine geringere Dicke (S. 3. Foto). Wenn man die Frästiefe nicht richtig einstellt, schrammt man gleich mit dem Fräserschaft an der Schablone entlang oder man rutscht ab!
Das ist bei den Schwalbenschwänzen noch relativ einfach einzustellen, bei Zinken aber schon tricky, weil der Fräser dann nicht mehr lang genug ist. Ich habe mir so geholfen, dass ich das Werkstück weiter nach hinten und nach oben versetzt habe (s. 4. Foto) mit einem 12 mm Brett als Zwischenstück geht’s (es entsteht eine minimale Lücke, vermutlich 0,7 mm, ist aber nicht schlimm). Und dann bekommt man perfekte Zinken (s. 1. und 2. Foto mit Überstand und plan geschliffen - da war ich etwas hastig, ist ja nur zur Probe).
Kurze Anleitung fürs Einstellen der Zinken: Erstes Brett einspannen und den Fräser an der linken Seite der Zinkenschablone entlang führen. Nur links! Wir wollen genau 12,7 mm oder 1/2" heraus fräsen.
Zweites Brett dann an der rechten Seite der Zinkenschablone entlangführen.
Markierung: Hat man das erste Brett gefräst, legt man beide bündig übereinander und zeichnet die Lücken vom ersten auf das zweite Brett. Dann markiere ich immer noch die Teile, die ich wegfräsen will (weil ich sonst unter Garantie die falschen Teile weg fräse) und stelle den rechten Rand der Markierung so ein, dass er bündig mit der Zinkenschablone verläuft (Ablauf, s. 5. Foto).
Werkstück festspannen und wie oben erklärt an der rechten Seite entlang fräsen.
Schaut man sich die Markierungen an, sieht das unlogisch aus, als ob zu wenig weggefräst wird - aber es funktioniert!
Mit Fräskorb oder am Frästisch arbeiten? Ist eine Philosophie-Frage. Wenn man sich sicher genug fühlt ist die Frästisch-Methode sehr komfortabel, denn das Festspannen der Schablone wird schnell lästig. Beim Frästisch spannt man das Werkstück ein, dreht das Ganze um und legt los (Links und rechts auf der Unterseite markieren, sonst kommt man durcheinander). Außerdem fliegen die Späne nach hinten weg und können abgesaugt werden. Mit Fräskorb fliegen die einem immer ins Gesicht.
Zinken und Schwalbenschwänze sitzen schon ohne Verkleben bombenfest und ich brauche einen (Schon-)Hammer, um die wieder auseinander zu bekommen.
Also klare Kaufempfehlung und trotz der englischen Anleitung 5 Sterne, weil es mir gefällt, dass das Produkt komplett aus Metall gefertigt ist und sich mit dieser Farbe schon fast als Deko-Objekt anbietet!
Reviewed in Germany on September 27, 2023
Es ist vollständig aus Metall (Aluminium) und ordentlich verarbeitet. Montiert werden muss nix. Man kann lediglich die beiden Griffe für die Arbeit am Frästisch anschrauben und muss sie wieder abschrauben, wenn man mit dem Fräskorb arbeitet.
Bzgl. US-Produkt: Die Anleitung und das Video sind natürlich auf Englisch. Alle Angaben sind in Zoll (2,54 cm). Der beiliegende Fräskopf ist auch mit einem 1/4" (Zoll) Schaft - den legt man am besten gleich zur Seite, weil der sowieso nicht in eine Standard-Fräse für den deutschen Markt passt, und kauft einen mit 8 mm Schaft in besserer Qualität (gibt’s hier z.B. von ENT 16200).
Man sollte sich schon mal einen Tag Zeit und diverse Probebrettchen nehmen, zusätzlich die Anleitung und das Video schauen, bevor man richtig loslegen kann. Es ist wirklich nicht schwer und macht richtig Spaß, wenn man den Dreh raus hat. Schwalbenschwänze erklärt das Video sehr gut. Das beschreibe ich hier nicht extra, werden aber ordentlich (s. 6. Foto) und halten auch.
Bei den Zinkenfräsen braucht man wieder einen mit Kugellager am Schaft (Bündigfräser). Der Durchmesser muss genau 12,7 mm sein (1/2"), sonst fräst man zu viel oder zu wenig und die Zinken passen nicht.
Er muss um die Länge der Werkstückdicke + Dicke der Zinkenschablone (ca. 7mm) + Zugabe (ca. 0,5mm) herausragen UND (das gilt auch für Schwalbenschwänze) dann immer noch mit dem einen Kugellager an der Zinkenschablone anliegen.
Denn - aufpassen: Die Zinkenschablone hat nach hinten eine geringere Dicke (S. 3. Foto). Wenn man die Frästiefe nicht richtig einstellt, schrammt man gleich mit dem Fräserschaft an der Schablone entlang oder man rutscht ab!
Das ist bei den Schwalbenschwänzen noch relativ einfach einzustellen, bei Zinken aber schon tricky, weil der Fräser dann nicht mehr lang genug ist. Ich habe mir so geholfen, dass ich das Werkstück weiter nach hinten und nach oben versetzt habe (s. 4. Foto) mit einem 12 mm Brett als Zwischenstück geht’s (es entsteht eine minimale Lücke, vermutlich 0,7 mm, ist aber nicht schlimm). Und dann bekommt man perfekte Zinken (s. 1. und 2. Foto mit Überstand und plan geschliffen - da war ich etwas hastig, ist ja nur zur Probe).
Kurze Anleitung fürs Einstellen der Zinken: Erstes Brett einspannen und den Fräser an der linken Seite der Zinkenschablone entlang führen. Nur links! Wir wollen genau 12,7 mm oder 1/2" heraus fräsen.
Zweites Brett dann an der rechten Seite der Zinkenschablone entlangführen.
Markierung: Hat man das erste Brett gefräst, legt man beide bündig übereinander und zeichnet die Lücken vom ersten auf das zweite Brett. Dann markiere ich immer noch die Teile, die ich wegfräsen will (weil ich sonst unter Garantie die falschen Teile weg fräse) und stelle den rechten Rand der Markierung so ein, dass er bündig mit der Zinkenschablone verläuft (Ablauf, s. 5. Foto).
Werkstück festspannen und wie oben erklärt an der rechten Seite entlang fräsen.
Schaut man sich die Markierungen an, sieht das unlogisch aus, als ob zu wenig weggefräst wird - aber es funktioniert!
Mit Fräskorb oder am Frästisch arbeiten? Ist eine Philosophie-Frage. Wenn man sich sicher genug fühlt ist die Frästisch-Methode sehr komfortabel, denn das Festspannen der Schablone wird schnell lästig. Beim Frästisch spannt man das Werkstück ein, dreht das Ganze um und legt los (Links und rechts auf der Unterseite markieren, sonst kommt man durcheinander). Außerdem fliegen die Späne nach hinten weg und können abgesaugt werden. Mit Fräskorb fliegen die einem immer ins Gesicht.
Zinken und Schwalbenschwänze sitzen schon ohne Verkleben bombenfest und ich brauche einen (Schon-)Hammer, um die wieder auseinander zu bekommen.
Also klare Kaufempfehlung und trotz der englischen Anleitung 5 Sterne, weil es mir gefällt, dass das Produkt komplett aus Metall gefertigt ist und sich mit dieser Farbe schon fast als Deko-Objekt anbietet!