Bottom line up front: The printer seems to be very good (I've only printed a few small items with it, so I can't comment on durability, yet). The manual, as other reviews have noted, requires careful and sometimes imaginative reading to understand exactly what needs to be done. It is also possible that you will receive a printer with firmware and software that has been superseded by newer versions. Do not hesitate to contact BIBO when/if you run into problems; they will walk you through procedures, repairs, installations, and provide updates. Their customer support ranks among the best I have ever experienced. BIBO is in China, so they are 13 hours ahead of the US eastern time zone and 16 hours ahead of the US pacific time zone. They answered my emails sent around 23:00 US eastern time within a few hours, sometimes within minutes.
Caveat to potential buyers: This printer requires assembly. BIBO supplies all the (metric) nuts, bolts, screws, and tools you will need if everything goes according to plan, but you should be prepared to serve as your own technician. You might need needle-nose pliers, a stubby Phillips screw driver, a flashlight (a wearable headlight is best), and your cell phone's camera (so BIBO can more easily and quickly understand the issue) in the event something goes awry. Sending photos along with the description of difficulties I encountered proved invaluable and made email exchanges productive.
Printer arrived promptly. I unboxed it promptly to inspect for damage and found none. I didn't have the time to assemble it immediately and when I did, about a month after receipt, I discovered that the lead screw was disconnected from the coupler to the motor (see 2 photos), a nut was missing from the X-axis limit switch, and both extruder wire clamps were damaged (only 1 is needed for assembly). I contacted the manufacturer by email and received instructions overnight regarding reattachment of the lead screw (see the photos of the detached screw and the blue coupler and Z-axis motor below the printing compartment). The repair was very easy and there were sufficient spare nuts to replace the missing one that probably came loose during shipment from China. I haven't yet searched the boxes and packing material to see if it is there. BIBO promptly sent new clamps, along with extra nozzles and thermocouples.
The printer comes with an SD card in a plastic case with all the manuals (there were 3 different ones, with different dates/version numbers; I worked from version 3.0a12), assembly videos (very useful since you can see what needs to be done), troubleshooting tips, Cura and Repetier slicer software, and machine settings for the printer, test g code files. The versions of slicer software turned out not to be the most recent, so when installed, they immediately wanted to upgrade to the current versions. If you do upgrade, you may need to get new settings files from BIBO since the ones on the SD card may not work with the current versions of slicer software. My SD card came with Cura 15.04.6 and a .ini file, but this .ini file fails with Cura 3.5.1, the current version. I installed Cura on my PC, let the software upgrade, and when initializaton of Cura 3.5.1 failed (I sent them a screen capture of the error message), BIBO promptly sent me links to the correct profiles to solve the problem.
My printer came with a touch pad and WiFi capability. The printer connected to my LAN, but Firefox did not display an intelligible screen when I connected to the printer. I also noticed that the photos of the touch pad shown in the manual did not match what my touch pad showed. The problem was that the firmware was version 2.0.1, and version 3.0.3 should have been installed. BIBO sent me a link to the current version and instructions to install it. All that worked properly and my browser was able to connect to the printer and the screen was correct. However, although the touch pad display now matched the manual better, it was unresponsive. This was traced to the serial interface in the printer being 115200 baud, while the configuration file set the parameter to 250000 baud. The installation instructions provide a link to the 115200 baud configuration file, so this was an easy fix with a text editor. There is no 3.0.3 screen on the touch pad that gives you the baud rate information, so if you have a printer seemingly unresponsive to the touch pad, try changing the baud rate setting cfg_baud_rate in the configuration file (mks_config.txt) to a selection other than what's in your configuration file.
If you edit your configuration file, or get a new one from BIBO, you will need to power down the printer, put the new mks_config.txt on an SD card, insert the card in the printer, then power up the printer. The printer will read the new configuration file and rename it to .cur.
Once the assembly and slicer (I stuck with Cura; I cannot comment on Repetier at this time) issues were settled, I tried printing the test code for the cuboid printed with extruder 1. The extruder first moves to the front of the machine and lays down a line of filament to purge the nozzle. Then it goes to the center of the glass plate and prints a small rectangular solid. On my first attempt I did not apply glue to the glass and the filament did not adhere. An email to BIBO resulted in the advice to use the glue. That solved the problem and the second attempt was good.
My second print was another small object, but larger than the cuboid, a model of a human liver, about 1.5 inches x 1 inch tall. The first attempt had sections that clearly were offset slightly from the rest of the model. See the photo (the one that looks a little like a sea shell). I had set the infill to 30% and had the slicer generate supports and a raft. Aside from the offsets in the print, I found I needed to heat the bed to 50 C to be able to slide an edge under the raft to dislodge the print. I also found that the glass plate could move very slightly, less than 1 mm, in the + or -X direction if I pushed on it. My printer did not come with binder clips shown as a possibility in the manual to hold the glass bed to the aluminum plate with the heater, and the manual instructed to push the glass plate down onto the aluminum plate between the leveling screws at the front and a pair of pins at the back. When I asked about these offsets in the print, BIBO told me that bed movement was the probable culprit, and that turned out to be true. Adding binder clips solved this problem and resulted in the second printed liver in the photos. The "liver" is standing on its right side; you can see one of the binder clips in the background and the front of the plate at the right and left, the raft and support, and the glue smear under the print, and a initial line of filament that cleared the nozzle at the front of the glass plate.
This print's walls are very smooth and all the details from the original STL are present. I found it easy to remove the raft, but not so easy to remove the support material. That may require careful sanding. I view this as a function of the object to be printed and the slicing engine; I need to experiment with Cura's settings to find out if there is something to control the support material.
All things considered, it was not really difficult to assemble and get running, albeit with a number of emails to BIBO. The items I have done so far have printed correctly. Don't succumb to frustration if your printer does not seem to conform precisely to the illustrations in the accompanying manuals. Contact BIBO and they will work with you.
Update after 2 years:
The printer has worked flawlessly. Among other things, I've made the holders for the PVC pipe holding filament spools in my dry box, body part models, and am working on lithophanes.
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Product Description
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Machine ParameterExtruder Number: 2 Frame: 6mm aluminum composite panel Full-color Touch Screen: Yes WIFI Control: Yes Copy Printing: Yes Continue Printing After Power Cut: Yes Filament Run-out Detection: Yes Removable Heated Bed: Yes (already leveled, usually no need to level it again) Connectivity: SD card, USB drive, USB, WiFi |
Printing ParameterBuild Size :8.4*7.3*6.3(in) / 214*186*160(mm） Printing Layer Resolution: 0.05-0.3mm Max. Nozzle Temp.: 270℃ Recommended Software: Repetier-Host, Cura, Simplify3D Compatibility: Windows, Mac, Linux Filament Type: ABS, PLA, Dissolvable filament (HIPS), Flexible filament (TPU), PETG,Nylon,PC,Carbon fiber,etc Filament Diameter: 1.75mm |
Gifts list1 x WIFI module (pre-installed) 1 x acrylic cover kit (assembly required) 2.2 LBS (1.0KG) PLA filament 1 x SD card 1 x glass bed |
Dual Extruders
- Easier to print support structures: print in a different filament type and color to make them easier to remove. If using dissolvable filament for support, the support material will just dissolve away leaving only the finished model.
- Copy printing: dual extruders can print two same objects at one time, cut your printing time at least in HALF.
- Two color printing: print 2 color objects without needing to change the filament during the printing process. The previously programmed G-code file will tell the printer exactly when to use each color.
- Sturdy frame: 6mm thick aluminum composite panel. More reliable and higher precision than plastic frame.
- Removable enclosed cover: The printer is also fully enclosed with an acrylic hood and front door. This ensures much better temperature control inside the printer which is great when printing with ABS filaments. he acrylic covers are also removable for better cooling when using PLA filament.
- Full color touch screen: with no threshold,which is more friendly and easier operation.
- WIFI control: the included networking feature permits you to control the print via a phone or PC.
- Filament detection: if the filament spool runs out during printing, the machine automatically pauses for you to load in a fresh spool, very useful for big volume object printing.
- Continue printing after power cut: if you have a power failure, the BIBO will resume printing where it left off once the power comes back on. There’s not a lot of 3D printers that have that particular function. Usually you would end up with an incomplete project and would have to start again from scratch.
Videos
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Customer Review: Great service, unreliable product
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BIBO 3D printer BIBO 2 Touch unboxing
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Customer Review: Versatile, accurate, reliable.
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Anet 3D Printer Unbox & Setup,Easy Assemble,Test Printing
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Reviews with images
Fantastic customer support from BIBO
Bottom line up front: The printer seems to be very good (I've only printed a few small items with it, so I can't comment on durability, yet). The manual, as other reviews have noted, requires careful and sometimes imaginative reading to understand exactly what needs to be done. It is also possible that you will receive a printer with firmware and software that has been superseded by newer versions. Do not hesitate to contact BIBO when/if you run into problems; they will walk you through procedures, repairs, installations, and provide updates. Their customer support ranks among the best I have ever experienced. BIBO is in China, so they are 13 hours ahead of the US eastern time zone and 16 hours ahead of the US pacific time zone. They answered my emails sent around 23:00 US eastern time within a few hours, sometimes within minutes.Caveat to potential buyers: This printer requires assembly. BIBO supplies all the (metric) nuts, bolts, screws, and tools you will need if everything goes according to plan, but you should be prepared to serve as your own technician. You might need needle-nose pliers, a stubby Phillips screw driver, a flashlight (a wearable headlight is best), and your cell phone's camera (so BIBO can more easily and quickly understand the issue) in the event something goes awry. Sending photos along with the description of difficulties I encountered proved invaluable and made email exchanges productive.Printer arrived promptly. I unboxed it promptly to inspect for damage and found none. I didn't have the time to assemble it immediately and when I did, about a month after receipt, I discovered that the lead screw was disconnected from the coupler to the motor (see 2 photos), a nut was missing from the X-axis limit switch, and both extruder wire clamps were damaged (only 1 is needed for assembly). I contacted the manufacturer by email and received instructions overnight regarding reattachment of the lead screw (see the photos of the detached screw and the blue coupler and Z-axis motor below the printing compartment). The repair was very easy and there were sufficient spare nuts to replace the missing one that probably came loose during shipment from China. I haven't yet searched the boxes and packing material to see if it is there. BIBO promptly sent new clamps, along with extra nozzles and thermocouples.The printer comes with an SD card in a plastic case with all the manuals (there were 3 different ones, with different dates/version numbers; I worked from version 3.0a12), assembly videos (very useful since you can see what needs to be done), troubleshooting tips, Cura and Repetier slicer software, and machine settings for the printer, test g code files. The versions of slicer software turned out not to be the most recent, so when installed, they immediately wanted to upgrade to the current versions. If you do upgrade, you may need to get new settings files from BIBO since the ones on the SD card may not work with the current versions of slicer software. My SD card came with Cura 15.04.6 and a .ini file, but this .ini file fails with Cura 3.5.1, the current version. I installed Cura on my PC, let the software upgrade, and when initializaton of Cura 3.5.1 failed (I sent them a screen capture of the error message), BIBO promptly sent me links to the correct profiles to solve the problem.My printer came with a touch pad and WiFi capability. The printer connected to my LAN, but Firefox did not display an intelligible screen when I connected to the printer. I also noticed that the photos of the touch pad shown in the manual did not match what my touch pad showed. The problem was that the firmware was version 2.0.1, and version 3.0.3 should have been installed. BIBO sent me a link to the current version and instructions to install it. All that worked properly and my browser was able to connect to the printer and the screen was correct. However, although the touch pad display now matched the manual better, it was unresponsive. This was traced to the serial interface in the printer being 115200 baud, while the configuration file set the parameter to 250000 baud. The installation instructions provide a link to the 115200 baud configuration file, so this was an easy fix with a text editor. There is no 3.0.3 screen on the touch pad that gives you the baud rate information, so if you have a printer seemingly unresponsive to the touch pad, try changing the baud rate setting cfg_baud_rate in the configuration file (mks_config.txt) to a selection other than what's in your configuration file.If you edit your configuration file, or get a new one from BIBO, you will need to power down the printer, put the new mks_config.txt on an SD card, insert the card in the printer, then power up the printer. The printer will read the new configuration file and rename it to .cur.Once the assembly and slicer (I stuck with Cura; I cannot comment on Repetier at this time) issues were settled, I tried printing the test code for the cuboid printed with extruder 1. The extruder first moves to the front of the machine and lays down a line of filament to purge the nozzle. Then it goes to the center of the glass plate and prints a small rectangular solid. On my first attempt I did not apply glue to the glass and the filament did not adhere. An email to BIBO resulted in the advice to use the glue. That solved the problem and the second attempt was good.My second print was another small object, but larger than the cuboid, a model of a human liver, about 1.5 inches x 1 inch tall. The first attempt had sections that clearly were offset slightly from the rest of the model. See the photo (the one that looks a little like a sea shell). I had set the infill to 30% and had the slicer generate supports and a raft. Aside from the offsets in the print, I found I needed to heat the bed to 50 C to be able to slide an edge under the raft to dislodge the print. I also found that the glass plate could move very slightly, less than 1 mm, in the + or -X direction if I pushed on it. My printer did not come with binder clips shown as a possibility in the manual to hold the glass bed to the aluminum plate with the heater, and the manual instructed to push the glass plate down onto the aluminum plate between the leveling screws at the front and a pair of pins at the back. When I asked about these offsets in the print, BIBO told me that bed movement was the probable culprit, and that turned out to be true. Adding binder clips solved this problem and resulted in the second printed liver in the photos. The "liver" is standing on its right side; you can see one of the binder clips in the background and the front of the plate at the right and left, the raft and support, and the glue smear under the print, and a initial line of filament that cleared the nozzle at the front of the glass plate.This print's walls are very smooth and all the details from the original STL are present. I found it easy to remove the raft, but not so easy to remove the support material. That may require careful sanding. I view this as a function of the object to be printed and the slicing engine; I need to experiment with Cura's settings to find out if there is something to control the support material.All things considered, it was not really difficult to assemble and get running, albeit with a number of emails to BIBO. The items I have done so far have printed correctly. Don't succumb to frustration if your printer does not seem to conform precisely to the illustrations in the accompanying manuals. Contact BIBO and they will work with you.Update after 2 years:The printer has worked flawlessly. Among other things, I've made the holders for the PVC pipe holding filament spools in my dry box, body part models, and am working on lithophanes.
Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on November 14, 2018
Bottom line up front: The printer seems to be very good (I've only printed a few small items with it, so I can't comment on durability, yet). The manual, as other reviews have noted, requires careful and sometimes imaginative reading to understand exactly what needs to be done. It is also possible that you will receive a printer with firmware and software that has been superseded by newer versions. Do not hesitate to contact BIBO when/if you run into problems; they will walk you through procedures, repairs, installations, and provide updates. Their customer support ranks among the best I have ever experienced. BIBO is in China, so they are 13 hours ahead of the US eastern time zone and 16 hours ahead of the US pacific time zone. They answered my emails sent around 23:00 US eastern time within a few hours, sometimes within minutes.
Caveat to potential buyers: This printer requires assembly. BIBO supplies all the (metric) nuts, bolts, screws, and tools you will need if everything goes according to plan, but you should be prepared to serve as your own technician. You might need needle-nose pliers, a stubby Phillips screw driver, a flashlight (a wearable headlight is best), and your cell phone's camera (so BIBO can more easily and quickly understand the issue) in the event something goes awry. Sending photos along with the description of difficulties I encountered proved invaluable and made email exchanges productive.
Printer arrived promptly. I unboxed it promptly to inspect for damage and found none. I didn't have the time to assemble it immediately and when I did, about a month after receipt, I discovered that the lead screw was disconnected from the coupler to the motor (see 2 photos), a nut was missing from the X-axis limit switch, and both extruder wire clamps were damaged (only 1 is needed for assembly). I contacted the manufacturer by email and received instructions overnight regarding reattachment of the lead screw (see the photos of the detached screw and the blue coupler and Z-axis motor below the printing compartment). The repair was very easy and there were sufficient spare nuts to replace the missing one that probably came loose during shipment from China. I haven't yet searched the boxes and packing material to see if it is there. BIBO promptly sent new clamps, along with extra nozzles and thermocouples.
The printer comes with an SD card in a plastic case with all the manuals (there were 3 different ones, with different dates/version numbers; I worked from version 3.0a12), assembly videos (very useful since you can see what needs to be done), troubleshooting tips, Cura and Repetier slicer software, and machine settings for the printer, test g code files. The versions of slicer software turned out not to be the most recent, so when installed, they immediately wanted to upgrade to the current versions. If you do upgrade, you may need to get new settings files from BIBO since the ones on the SD card may not work with the current versions of slicer software. My SD card came with Cura 15.04.6 and a .ini file, but this .ini file fails with Cura 3.5.1, the current version. I installed Cura on my PC, let the software upgrade, and when initializaton of Cura 3.5.1 failed (I sent them a screen capture of the error message), BIBO promptly sent me links to the correct profiles to solve the problem.
My printer came with a touch pad and WiFi capability. The printer connected to my LAN, but Firefox did not display an intelligible screen when I connected to the printer. I also noticed that the photos of the touch pad shown in the manual did not match what my touch pad showed. The problem was that the firmware was version 2.0.1, and version 3.0.3 should have been installed. BIBO sent me a link to the current version and instructions to install it. All that worked properly and my browser was able to connect to the printer and the screen was correct. However, although the touch pad display now matched the manual better, it was unresponsive. This was traced to the serial interface in the printer being 115200 baud, while the configuration file set the parameter to 250000 baud. The installation instructions provide a link to the 115200 baud configuration file, so this was an easy fix with a text editor. There is no 3.0.3 screen on the touch pad that gives you the baud rate information, so if you have a printer seemingly unresponsive to the touch pad, try changing the baud rate setting cfg_baud_rate in the configuration file (mks_config.txt) to a selection other than what's in your configuration file.
If you edit your configuration file, or get a new one from BIBO, you will need to power down the printer, put the new mks_config.txt on an SD card, insert the card in the printer, then power up the printer. The printer will read the new configuration file and rename it to .cur.
Once the assembly and slicer (I stuck with Cura; I cannot comment on Repetier at this time) issues were settled, I tried printing the test code for the cuboid printed with extruder 1. The extruder first moves to the front of the machine and lays down a line of filament to purge the nozzle. Then it goes to the center of the glass plate and prints a small rectangular solid. On my first attempt I did not apply glue to the glass and the filament did not adhere. An email to BIBO resulted in the advice to use the glue. That solved the problem and the second attempt was good.
My second print was another small object, but larger than the cuboid, a model of a human liver, about 1.5 inches x 1 inch tall. The first attempt had sections that clearly were offset slightly from the rest of the model. See the photo (the one that looks a little like a sea shell). I had set the infill to 30% and had the slicer generate supports and a raft. Aside from the offsets in the print, I found I needed to heat the bed to 50 C to be able to slide an edge under the raft to dislodge the print. I also found that the glass plate could move very slightly, less than 1 mm, in the + or -X direction if I pushed on it. My printer did not come with binder clips shown as a possibility in the manual to hold the glass bed to the aluminum plate with the heater, and the manual instructed to push the glass plate down onto the aluminum plate between the leveling screws at the front and a pair of pins at the back. When I asked about these offsets in the print, BIBO told me that bed movement was the probable culprit, and that turned out to be true. Adding binder clips solved this problem and resulted in the second printed liver in the photos. The "liver" is standing on its right side; you can see one of the binder clips in the background and the front of the plate at the right and left, the raft and support, and the glue smear under the print, and a initial line of filament that cleared the nozzle at the front of the glass plate.
This print's walls are very smooth and all the details from the original STL are present. I found it easy to remove the raft, but not so easy to remove the support material. That may require careful sanding. I view this as a function of the object to be printed and the slicing engine; I need to experiment with Cura's settings to find out if there is something to control the support material.
All things considered, it was not really difficult to assemble and get running, albeit with a number of emails to BIBO. The items I have done so far have printed correctly. Don't succumb to frustration if your printer does not seem to conform precisely to the illustrations in the accompanying manuals. Contact BIBO and they will work with you.
Update after 2 years:
The printer has worked flawlessly. Among other things, I've made the holders for the PVC pipe holding filament spools in my dry box, body part models, and am working on lithophanes.
Caveat to potential buyers: This printer requires assembly. BIBO supplies all the (metric) nuts, bolts, screws, and tools you will need if everything goes according to plan, but you should be prepared to serve as your own technician. You might need needle-nose pliers, a stubby Phillips screw driver, a flashlight (a wearable headlight is best), and your cell phone's camera (so BIBO can more easily and quickly understand the issue) in the event something goes awry. Sending photos along with the description of difficulties I encountered proved invaluable and made email exchanges productive.
Printer arrived promptly. I unboxed it promptly to inspect for damage and found none. I didn't have the time to assemble it immediately and when I did, about a month after receipt, I discovered that the lead screw was disconnected from the coupler to the motor (see 2 photos), a nut was missing from the X-axis limit switch, and both extruder wire clamps were damaged (only 1 is needed for assembly). I contacted the manufacturer by email and received instructions overnight regarding reattachment of the lead screw (see the photos of the detached screw and the blue coupler and Z-axis motor below the printing compartment). The repair was very easy and there were sufficient spare nuts to replace the missing one that probably came loose during shipment from China. I haven't yet searched the boxes and packing material to see if it is there. BIBO promptly sent new clamps, along with extra nozzles and thermocouples.
The printer comes with an SD card in a plastic case with all the manuals (there were 3 different ones, with different dates/version numbers; I worked from version 3.0a12), assembly videos (very useful since you can see what needs to be done), troubleshooting tips, Cura and Repetier slicer software, and machine settings for the printer, test g code files. The versions of slicer software turned out not to be the most recent, so when installed, they immediately wanted to upgrade to the current versions. If you do upgrade, you may need to get new settings files from BIBO since the ones on the SD card may not work with the current versions of slicer software. My SD card came with Cura 15.04.6 and a .ini file, but this .ini file fails with Cura 3.5.1, the current version. I installed Cura on my PC, let the software upgrade, and when initializaton of Cura 3.5.1 failed (I sent them a screen capture of the error message), BIBO promptly sent me links to the correct profiles to solve the problem.
My printer came with a touch pad and WiFi capability. The printer connected to my LAN, but Firefox did not display an intelligible screen when I connected to the printer. I also noticed that the photos of the touch pad shown in the manual did not match what my touch pad showed. The problem was that the firmware was version 2.0.1, and version 3.0.3 should have been installed. BIBO sent me a link to the current version and instructions to install it. All that worked properly and my browser was able to connect to the printer and the screen was correct. However, although the touch pad display now matched the manual better, it was unresponsive. This was traced to the serial interface in the printer being 115200 baud, while the configuration file set the parameter to 250000 baud. The installation instructions provide a link to the 115200 baud configuration file, so this was an easy fix with a text editor. There is no 3.0.3 screen on the touch pad that gives you the baud rate information, so if you have a printer seemingly unresponsive to the touch pad, try changing the baud rate setting cfg_baud_rate in the configuration file (mks_config.txt) to a selection other than what's in your configuration file.
If you edit your configuration file, or get a new one from BIBO, you will need to power down the printer, put the new mks_config.txt on an SD card, insert the card in the printer, then power up the printer. The printer will read the new configuration file and rename it to .cur.
Once the assembly and slicer (I stuck with Cura; I cannot comment on Repetier at this time) issues were settled, I tried printing the test code for the cuboid printed with extruder 1. The extruder first moves to the front of the machine and lays down a line of filament to purge the nozzle. Then it goes to the center of the glass plate and prints a small rectangular solid. On my first attempt I did not apply glue to the glass and the filament did not adhere. An email to BIBO resulted in the advice to use the glue. That solved the problem and the second attempt was good.
My second print was another small object, but larger than the cuboid, a model of a human liver, about 1.5 inches x 1 inch tall. The first attempt had sections that clearly were offset slightly from the rest of the model. See the photo (the one that looks a little like a sea shell). I had set the infill to 30% and had the slicer generate supports and a raft. Aside from the offsets in the print, I found I needed to heat the bed to 50 C to be able to slide an edge under the raft to dislodge the print. I also found that the glass plate could move very slightly, less than 1 mm, in the + or -X direction if I pushed on it. My printer did not come with binder clips shown as a possibility in the manual to hold the glass bed to the aluminum plate with the heater, and the manual instructed to push the glass plate down onto the aluminum plate between the leveling screws at the front and a pair of pins at the back. When I asked about these offsets in the print, BIBO told me that bed movement was the probable culprit, and that turned out to be true. Adding binder clips solved this problem and resulted in the second printed liver in the photos. The "liver" is standing on its right side; you can see one of the binder clips in the background and the front of the plate at the right and left, the raft and support, and the glue smear under the print, and a initial line of filament that cleared the nozzle at the front of the glass plate.
This print's walls are very smooth and all the details from the original STL are present. I found it easy to remove the raft, but not so easy to remove the support material. That may require careful sanding. I view this as a function of the object to be printed and the slicing engine; I need to experiment with Cura's settings to find out if there is something to control the support material.
All things considered, it was not really difficult to assemble and get running, albeit with a number of emails to BIBO. The items I have done so far have printed correctly. Don't succumb to frustration if your printer does not seem to conform precisely to the illustrations in the accompanying manuals. Contact BIBO and they will work with you.
Update after 2 years:
The printer has worked flawlessly. Among other things, I've made the holders for the PVC pipe holding filament spools in my dry box, body part models, and am working on lithophanes.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on April 8, 2019
Top reviews from other countries
Brandon Watson
I am very happy I went with this printer over the other choices!!!!
Reviewed in Canada on October 21, 2017
Brandon Watson
Reviewed in Canada on October 21, 2017
First things first, I have had some experience with 3D printing but I am still new to it. I have only had this printer for about 6 days at the time of this review but so far I am very happy with how well this printer prints. (As of right now, I have only printed with PLA on it) The prints come off the print bed nice and crisp without many defects (if any at all). My printer came with both nozzles set at the correct height so one nozzle does not bump into the prints as the other nozzle is printing. (Thank you BIBO as this helps initial setup tremendously!) I have printed some simple models which have come out great and some models with moving parts which have also turned out great. As this is my first printer with dual extruders, I had to try a dual extrusion print. I was unsure about how well my first attempt at this would turn out but I was blown away at the quality of the print!! I used the Ooze Shield setting in Simplify3D and it worked really well at keeping the print crisp.
One thing to note about the images I have included is that the top layer of some of the prints have small open areas. This is NOT due to the BIBO 3D Printer. I was printing at a fine layer height and forgot to add a few extra top and bottom layers to the print in Simplify3D. These prints were also printed at a fairly fast speed which will affect the quality as well.
UPDATE 2 MONTHS: I have had the printer for a couple of months now and it still works great! I have adjusted more settings and the print quality has gotten much better. New pictures of prints after the new settings were added. (benchy boat). There was a little bit of layer shifting but that was due to one of the screws for the glass bed not being tightened down so the bed moved just slightly. I simply tightened the screws and I now use a binder clip on the front just to make sure. This works well. The print quality is amazing. The bridging was almost flawless.
UPDATE 3: I have uploaded more pictures with the new print settings. The new pictures have labels stating what filament each part was printed in. So far I have printed with Hatchbox PLA, AMZ3D PLA, Polymaker PolyMax PLA, 3D-Fuel Advanced PLA and Taulman3D t-glase. The BIBO 3D Printer has done an excellent job printing in all of these materials. I was blown away by the quality of the PolyMax and the 3D-Fuel APLA prints. The quality of the lettering on the socket print speaks for itself. The light bulb is actually a slinky which explains why it printed with lines.
The BIBO Support Team have been more than excellent so far at responding to any questions I've had. Responses come very quickly and with good full answers.
UPDATE 3: The BIBO Support Staff continue to be very responsive the odd time help is required.
So far I am very happy with the build quality of the printer. Everything is sturdy and well put together. I really like the touch screen as it makes going through the menus fast and easy.
At this time, I haven't used the laser engraver so I cannot comment on it as of right now.
UPDATE 2 MONTHS: I have tried the laser engraver a little. It's a nice feature to have and works well enough. I have included a short video of this working.
All in all I am extremely glad I went with this printer. I will update my review with more pictures and information as I continue to print with it.
Images in this review
SS
One Year In. Still a Great Printer✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Reviewed in Canada on July 18, 2018
SS
Reviewed in Canada on July 18, 2018
One year in. Posted more pics.
This is a good designed product. It takes some time to understand how to print a successful project. The laser engraver is also a steep learning curve. EDIT: This is not an issue now, my own fault, they are now even and prints dual, copy without any issue at all. had to remove a printing nozzle as they were not level and won't print properly, The insulation under the bed had to be retaped with a better adhesive tape. The firmware had issues, the company quickly addressed and fixed it. Lots of YouTube videos to help with any printing issues in general. I would recommend this printer to a hobbiest that doesn't mind fooling about and changing setpoints to fine tune the prints. This machine prints well, I have had no jams, or part failures. EDIT: (not an issue anymore) Just maybe hope for an upgraded print head with removable, or adjustable excruders to prevent print dislodging from the offline head. I routinely change nozzle sizes for different prints. I have designed and printed in pla, nylon, copper, pet g and wood. It handles all of it well. The filament run out detection is an excellent add on. The touch screen works well and easy to navigate. (EDIT) tried and it works, I dont use the wifi option, the SD card is superior. I use both usb and sd card inputs without issues. All in all a good machine. As with anything mechanical, it's always a good idea to check screws and nuts ect for loosening and movement.
Images in this review
