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Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Epoxy, Bubble Free Food Grade Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal
Purchase options and add-ons
Brand | FGCI |
Specific Uses For Product | Deep pour epoxy resin |
Material | Epoxy Resin |
Compatible Material | Wood |
Item Form | Liquid |
About this item
- TRUE DEEP POUR: Experience the ease of 2-4 inch pours with our advanced Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy. Perfect for river tables and large-scale projects, this feature offers unmatched depth and clarity, making it a game-changer in the epoxy resin market.
- UNMATCHED DURABILITY: Crafted to endure, Superclear 2.0 sets the standard for strength. Its rock-hard curing provides exceptional structural integrity, ensuring your creations withstand years of wear and tear without compromising quality.
- BUBBLE-LESS TECHNOLOGY: Say goodbye to imperfections with our low viscosity Liquid Glass Epoxy. Its unique formulation allows bubbles to escape easily during curing, delivering a flawless, crystal-clear finish every time.
- MADE IN THE USA: With over 60 years of expertise, Fiberglass Coatings, Inc. in Saint Petersburg, FL, proudly presents this 100% American-made epoxy. Our commitment to quality and innovation reflects in every batch we produce.
- SIMPLE & VERSATILE: Designed for both beginners and professionals, our epoxy resin is user-friendly and adaptable to various creative projects. From intricate river tables to substantial mold castings, its ease of use and clarity are unparalleled.
- FOOD GRADE SAFE: Our epoxy resin is formulated with safety in mind. It is low odor and VOC free, making it a safer choice for both the user and the environment.
- HIGHEST UV HEAT RESISTANCE: Our Superclear 2.0 Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin is engineered with top-tier UV resistance to prevent yellowing. Can take Up to 205F Heat Exposure.
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Product information
Brand | FGCI |
---|---|
Specific Uses For Product | Deep pour epoxy resin |
Material | Epoxy Resin |
Compatible Material | Wood |
Item Form | Liquid |
Special Feature | Dries Clear, Heat Resistant, Non Toxic, Food Grade Compliant, Water Resistant |
Color | Clear |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Package Information | Bottle |
Item Volume | 3 Gallons |
Water Resistance Level | Water Resistant |
Package Dimensions | 12 x 12 x 12 inches |
Item model number | SUVELAM |
ASIN | B07PXFDBVR |
Customer Reviews |
4.7 out of 5 stars |
Best Sellers Rank | #4,561 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing (See Top 100 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing) #47 in Sculpture Molding & Casting Products |
Item Weight | 27 pounds |
Manufacturer | FGCI |
Country of Origin | USA |
Date First Available | March 20, 2019 |
Warranty & Support
Feedback
From the brand
Super Epoxy Resin Systems
Adhering to Excellence by Mixing Quality & Results!
-
We’ve been manufacturing resins for over 60 years because of the values we hold and quality we produce! At FGCI we value our people, and most of all we value you, the customer.
We are dedicated to providing you the most premium, thoroughly tested and state-of-the-art formulated resin products. Your project matters to us, and that’s why we create and provide the best epoxy resins and epoxy based products.
-
Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy
Our Superclear 2.0 Liquid Glass casting epoxy is absolutely unmatched with a deep pour capability of 2-4 inches*!
-
Countertop Epoxy Resin
Superclear Countertop Epoxy Resin is your ultimate solution for coating, repairing and enhancing countertops, bar tops, and table tops!
-
Superclear Designer Art Resin
Designer Art Resin has been especially formulated to fit all of the modern resin artist’s needs. Art Resin Certified & Food Grade Safe!
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Superclear Table Top Epoxy
Superclear Table Top Epoxy has the highest UV resistance, clarity, & gloss available! Certified Food Grade Safe plus BPA & VOC Free!
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Deep Pour24 Hour Epoxy
Deep Pour 24 Hour Epoxy is an easy to use, low-viscosity, deep pour epoxy that cures in 24 hours and can be poured up to 1" thick!
-
Product Description
Super Epoxy Resin Systems Overview
Liquid Glass Deep Pour
Add to Cart
| Superclear Table Top
Add to Cart
| 24 Hour Deep Pour
Add to Cart
| Designer Art Resin
Add to Cart
| |
Customer Reviews
|
4.7 out of 5 stars
1,959
|
4.5 out of 5 stars
4,925
|
4.7 out of 5 stars
188
|
4.4 out of 5 stars
49
|
Kit Sizes
| .75, 1.5 & 3 Gallon Kit | 2 Quart, 1 & 2 Gallon Kit | .75, 1.5 & 3 Gallon Kit | 2 Quart, 1 & 2 Gallon Kit |
Cure Time
| 48-72 Hours | 24 Hours | 24-36 Hours | 24 Hours |
Mix Ratio
| 2:1 By Volume | 1:1 By Volume | 2:1 By Volume | 1:1 By Volume |
Primary Application
| River Tables & Thick Castings | Sealant, Coating, & Bar Tops | Charcuterie Boards & Trays | Wall Art, Coasters, & Jewelry |
Food Safe Approved?
| ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ |
Videos
Videos for this product
0:13
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Customer Review: Crystal Clear zero bubbles
Elizabeth
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Customer reviews
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonCustomers say
Customers like the appearance, clarity and quality of the bonding adhesive. For example, they mention it's easy to mix, gives a fabulous finish and cures very clear. That said, opinions are mixed on the value and heating.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers are satisfied with the quality of the bonding adhesive. They mention that it works well, has good cure times, and is of high quality. Some say that the product is watery and has a low viscosity, making it easy to apply.
"...I use on tile and glass, didn't really work - the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect - finally..." Read more
"...It cured as expected and although I used some mica powder for a semi-transparent look, it cured very clear so my live edges could be seen...." Read more
"We used this to make a couple large epoxy tables and it worked great!..." Read more
"...Item works well just make sure you have your measurements correct and you should be good. much appreciated y'all!" Read more
Customers find the bonding adhesives very easy to work with. They mention the directions are clear and exact, and the product mixes up super easy. Customers also say it lays down just as easy, and sets up within a couple of days.
"I used this epoxy for my first river table project. I found the epoxy very easy to use - it mixed quicker than I expected, though I mixed thoroughly..." Read more
"...-gallon bucket to mix it in since our tables were so big and it was easy to use but it did have a long dry time since our tables were 1.75" thick to..." Read more
"...Easy to mix and sets up within a couple of days. I have not poured it clear; only used it in conjunction with colored pigment." Read more
"...Directions are straight forward but you MUST have the discipline to follow them precisely for optimal results...." Read more
Customers are satisfied with the clarity of the bonding adhesive. They mention that it is crystal clear when dry, with little to no odor, and hard as glass after 72 hours. Some say that the epoxy came out great crystal clear with little bubbling. Overall, most are happy with the product's clarity.
"...condition, when used it emits little to no odor and is very clear when dry." Read more
"...although I used some mica powder for a semi-transparent look, it cured very clear so my live edges could be seen...." Read more
"...This product self leveled, is crystal clear, and coated from a 1/16 of an inch to about 5/8" with no problem...." Read more
"...and I can say that this is the highest quality epoxy with hardness, clarity, and minimal bubbles during curing...." Read more
Customers like the bubbles in the bonding adhesive. They say there are very few bubbles that are easily eradicated with a heat gun. The bubble release is also good, resulting in minimal bubbling and reducing complications.
"...It poured smoothly and I had very few bubbles, which popped easily with a mini butane torch...." Read more
"...Warm resin flows much better and allows air bubbles to escape.This is my go-to deep pour resin now...." Read more
"...is awesome and by the time it cures hard (2-3 days) there are no bubbles at all..." Read more
"...is the highest quality epoxy with hardness, clarity, and minimal bubbles during curing...." Read more
Customers are satisfied with the appearance of the bonding adhesive. They mention that it works great, easy to mix, and gives a fabulous finish. It has a really clear finish and can help make your projects look amazing. It levels and shines great, and it's beautiful for large, clear dioramas.
"...The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good...." Read more
"...The result is a floor that looks amazing and is a breeze to clean...." Read more
"...It cures very nice and it does very well with being a clear finish." Read more
"...First round I was thrilled. It's crystal clear and beautiful for my large, clear dioramas. Grabbed this big bundle the second round. Not so happy...." Read more
Customers find the bonding adhesives easy to mix. They mention that it works well, and sets up with minimal shrinkage. Some say that hand mixing is best, and that the epoxy mixes up super easy. Overall, most are satisfied with the ease of use and recommend the product.
"...Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of..." Read more
"...I found the epoxy very easy to use - it mixed quicker than I expected, though I mixed thoroughly for the recommended time...." Read more
"...I found the epoxy to be easy to mix and it took the colored mica powder extremely well...." Read more
"I've been using this epoxy for over a year now with great results. Easy to mix and sets up within a couple of days...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the value of the bonding adhesive. Some mention it's easy to use and great value for the cost, while others say it'll be very expensive for large projects.
"...Plus it's usually cheaper than the other brands! Win win :)" Read more
"Only thing I did not like was price is too high I think" Read more
"...This pour was cured fully in 4 days. The cost is surely worth it...." Read more
"Love the product. Best value for your money. 25% off coupon with Amazon. cannot pass up that price." Read more
Customers are mixed about the heating of the bonding adhesive. Some mention that they had no issues with heat or shrinkage, while others say that the product overheated and had uncontrolled exotherm. Deep pours get really hot and will crack if not cooled properly.
"...Four hours after the pour I noticed the epoxy was becoming extremely hot...." Read more
"Did a 5 gallon pour and this epoxy turned out beautifully! No mixing, heating, bubble issues etc. worth the extra $ over other brands." Read more
"...Developed an exothermic reaction which caused the Apoxsee to buckle and ruin the piece...." Read more
"This product overheated and had uncontrolled exotherm even at 2" pour. 8" test container, good air circulation, 72 degree room temp...." Read more
Reviews with images
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Top reviews
Top reviews from the United States
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So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult.
I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on Amazon that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured.
Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter.
On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal.
This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour.
Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good.
In summary, my lessons learned were:
- this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy"
- for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm
- don't trust the "release agents"
- when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold
- Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom
- polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work
- the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect
- finally, double and triple seal seams.
Reviewed in the United States on December 31, 2020
So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult.
I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on Amazon that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured.
Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter.
On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal.
This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour.
Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good.
In summary, my lessons learned were:
- this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy"
- for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm
- don't trust the "release agents"
- when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold
- Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom
- polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work
- the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect
- finally, double and triple seal seams.
The epoxy is much less viscous than what I have used before for various hobby needs (Total Boat 1:1 ratio)--in the most obvious way, the difference is that the Deep Pour epoxy will leak out of every microscopic-sized hole that you leave. This is not an epoxy fail, this is just the reason you've to to be really, really careful in your setup, but my experience says that you will not believe how many tapes don't work (at least I'm still surprised). Would strongly suggest having a 3mil plastic sheet under your complete setup, so that you can bring the plastic (which the epoxy won't stick to) up over the edges of your workpiece. Then...you have nothing to worry about re: leaks. The YouTubes I watched from people who have done this before recommended putting the workpiece on melamine-coated sheets, inside a melamine-coated box. I had a number of problems with this (no melamine sheets, so I had to use shelf pieces and join them; my project has live edges, so a "melamine box" doesn't really work). In hindsight I would have had far fewer issues if my table top was lying on a sheet of plastic.
The epoxy takes color tinting terrifically. You may be well surprised at how LITTLE color material you need---I would strongly recommend 1/4 tsp for 60oz epoxy as a start, it's amazing how well the color dispurses.
This stuff takes about 18 hours to get tacky, which gives you time. This is NOTHING like the 1:1 ratio epoxy I've previously used, that was tacky in 30 mins and cured in ~8 hours. The Deep Pour epoxy needs 72 hours for full cure, though it's hard and no longer tacky in roughly 48 hours.
My table is not finished, but I've included a current photo. I need one more pour on the top and then I won't touch it for three days. In fact, I won't be anywhere near it for three days, so I can avoid stirring up dust in my shop that lands on my table. For all you folks who do this all the time and feel compelled to point out all my mistakes...please try and restrain yourself, it's my first one. And possibly my last one, as this will go on my back porch here in hill country Texas, and there's no place in my house where I could put something of this size.
Now, re: the company--I can only comment on their curiously fast shipping times. Much appreciated! Recalling the comment about doing the math in advance to figure how just how much you need...prepared to need more. Given the price of the epoxy, I did not order it all at once, I ordered batch...after batch...after batch, thinking that maybe/possibly/hopefully I did the math wrong. I didn't. So it looks like I'll need a total of 15 gallons for the entire project. The good news is, the table will last WAY longer than I will, so my kids can fight over it one day.
Reviewed in the United States on October 28, 2022
The epoxy is much less viscous than what I have used before for various hobby needs (Total Boat 1:1 ratio)--in the most obvious way, the difference is that the Deep Pour epoxy will leak out of every microscopic-sized hole that you leave. This is not an epoxy fail, this is just the reason you've to to be really, really careful in your setup, but my experience says that you will not believe how many tapes don't work (at least I'm still surprised). Would strongly suggest having a 3mil plastic sheet under your complete setup, so that you can bring the plastic (which the epoxy won't stick to) up over the edges of your workpiece. Then...you have nothing to worry about re: leaks. The YouTubes I watched from people who have done this before recommended putting the workpiece on melamine-coated sheets, inside a melamine-coated box. I had a number of problems with this (no melamine sheets, so I had to use shelf pieces and join them; my project has live edges, so a "melamine box" doesn't really work). In hindsight I would have had far fewer issues if my table top was lying on a sheet of plastic.
The epoxy takes color tinting terrifically. You may be well surprised at how LITTLE color material you need---I would strongly recommend 1/4 tsp for 60oz epoxy as a start, it's amazing how well the color dispurses.
This stuff takes about 18 hours to get tacky, which gives you time. This is NOTHING like the 1:1 ratio epoxy I've previously used, that was tacky in 30 mins and cured in ~8 hours. The Deep Pour epoxy needs 72 hours for full cure, though it's hard and no longer tacky in roughly 48 hours.
My table is not finished, but I've included a current photo. I need one more pour on the top and then I won't touch it for three days. In fact, I won't be anywhere near it for three days, so I can avoid stirring up dust in my shop that lands on my table. For all you folks who do this all the time and feel compelled to point out all my mistakes...please try and restrain yourself, it's my first one. And possibly my last one, as this will go on my back porch here in hill country Texas, and there's no place in my house where I could put something of this size.
Now, re: the company--I can only comment on their curiously fast shipping times. Much appreciated! Recalling the comment about doing the math in advance to figure how just how much you need...prepared to need more. Given the price of the epoxy, I did not order it all at once, I ordered batch...after batch...after batch, thinking that maybe/possibly/hopefully I did the math wrong. I didn't. So it looks like I'll need a total of 15 gallons for the entire project. The good news is, the table will last WAY longer than I will, so my kids can fight over it one day.